Counterfeits And Bijouterie was born out of such unattractive "industry" as the production of fakes. So at first she only imitated the form and range of "real" jewelry. The French word "Bijou" was used before, denoting everyday - no family, no unique products, including forgery.
However, the production of fakes is not always aimed to fraud. For example, in the XVIII century crystals - Crystal Diamond Cut - were fashionable in themselves: they were decorated with buckle shoes, embroidered jackets, are made the buttons on jackets. Nobody, of course, hoping that this will be a scattering of glittering stones for real.
But in the role of jewelry artist - the author of the project, and sometimes his artist - very high. Signature or mark of the famous artist will ensure the popularity of necklaces, whether of straw or paper, made of copper or ordinary stones. At the same time, many articles of gold and silver can not be classified as works of art and relate to the bijouterie industry, which took place the previous trade.
Costume jewelry has found its niche, has found its voice in the world of bijouterie with a light hand of Coco Chanel. "Great Mademoiselle" changed the style to wear and match jewelry. The women in her dress, leaving the chamber atmosphere and living boudoirs, were businesslike and dynamic. It took them a versatile and elegant flashy things, by which even a small set of toilets (business suit, "the little black dress", blouse, sweater) gets personality, looks varied and can be easily transformed to the circumstances of time and place.
Enlarge Chanel bijouterie, deprived of their usual finesse of bijouterie. Made of metal, "under the gold" and "a silver", its well-known chains as once and rhinestones, is not sought to deceive. But their sophisticated weaving, the combination of shiny and matte surfaces, flexible and round, large and small elements create a certain artistic image.
Masterpieces of base
Ceased to be precious, and bijouterie, ornaments, "Chanel" and its imitators, carried out in large numbers, discovered the direction of the mass bijouterie, where the role of designer, artist and designer has become predominant. On this basis, formed the direction of bijouterie art design (as opposed to mass-night, which is also sometimes referred to as costume bijouterie, although it would be better to designate them by the word "fancy goods").Costume bijouterie art design has gradually become a full participant in high fashion in her strive for masteries major artists, including those who, like Chanel, combined work of the author and designer bijouterie.
The unity of style, individuality Swarovski, Giyenchy, Lagerfeld, Balmain is provided by union of fashion and designer bijouterie.
In contrast to the original works of bijouterie art bijouterie design Draw, although fine boutiques made a series of small, almost one by one. These days, appear in the author's bijouterie made of artificial materials not less prestigious, and sometimes more appropriate than in the real diamonds.
Contemporary bijouterie, especially the limited-edition designed for boutiques, extensive use of artificial materials, and sometimes outright weird, "unreal", and sometimes mimic the natural, traditional, but - without the games in the blende.
Today's other game, "the present - an artificial" is not connected to shame and show, with a challenge. By making an artificial look natural and vice versa, modern bijouterie is developing in line with the aesthetics of postmodernism, there is in line with the leading art movements.
Artists and fashion like naivnichat, recalling the early Middle Ages - and Givenchy creates the necklace in the "barbarian" style with artificial resins, resembling the old enamel is slightly incorrect, as it were hand-forge metal frame.
Chanel in the same window of the boutique can be a necklace and earrings with the "magic" spirals (Pierre Balmain), the ensemble of "The Sun" Lagerfeld, playing in kind, style, and pearls known firm Dolphin Ore, which are fake, at least not less Japanese pearls. And this game: Dolphin Ore uses a classic material - pearls, but frankly fake, and if the classical form: necklace bijouterie and a wide, multi-row bracelet - things like "sklavazh" fashion in the XVIII century (from the word "sklave" - a slave, so they resemble the collars and the hoops that fettered slaves). But this "classic" frank nasmeshnichaet: Where have you seen such a huge, flat pearls, which the lady of the past would be perched over such a large decoration!
Next to the assertive tone of showiness get on artistic refinement and subtle accents. The same firm Dolphin Ore, using well-known cultured and very expensive crystals Swarovski, creates a collection of sophisticated, mannered little things that veiled allusions and echoes of ancient traditions.
Lizard recalled motives Bernard Palissy, the artist since the last Valois, who is not really being able to sculpt and paint, but having a runaway imagination - stamp in the clay of living lizards and frogs, and then prints made from these castings. Brooch-bud - an allusion to the famous flower bijouterie XVIII century, a fine hand in the cuff - like a greeting from the 1860s. Turtle, fish, dragon draw our memory of the famous Faberge plastic. Eyeless golden mask melting a transparent manner - as a ghost "Silver Age".
But all these hints and phantoms seen ironic gaze of the modern stylist: the hand is narrow and unrealistic boneless, bud deliberate jerkiness and almost erotic. Only strong, perfectly traced necklace from Givenchy brings us from the world of the ghosts of the past.
Clear glass, colored resins used by the firm Istante, creating things while tending to the classics, but also with hints of different traditions, age and country. Twisted neck ornaments and bracelets (in the Russian system, referred to as "hryvnia") came from the early Middle Ages, but similar things and still make the master of the Caucasus. Pendant on a thin springy hoop - a remake of the fashion of the 1970s. Round Pendant Necklace on a multilane fixed with a hint of clasps (clasps) the middle of XIX century. But all those echoes of history put into a contemporary context, there are based on new technologies and materials.
Lines and Trends
Costume bijouterie is responding to the stylistic diversity of postmodern fibers, responding to different needs (and not only in accordance with the purse). It is finely adjustable to different life situations and challenges."For the Nights" is created bijouterie art design, including the elite of well-known companies - such as Givenchy and Charles Jourdan.
Day bijouterie is also divided into the business, designed to suit the office, and a lighter, causing his whole appearance the image of a sunny day, holiday, holiday. In this, too, bijouterie, new plastics, new exquisite shades, but in form it resembles classical, and the youth fashion of the 1960s - round beads, bracelets, hoops, clips, sockets, in the daytime bijouterie actively invade oriental motifs, and the products of this kind constitute As a rule, not boutique, but the mass of its formation.
Sensitively detected by both a fashionable fad - work with nature, natural materials (horn, bone), the experiment with the colors of "environmental scale".
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